ALEXANDRITE
POLISHED ALEXANDRITE
ROUGH ALEXANDRITE
Alexandrite, with its chameleon-like qualities, is a rare variety of the mineral chrysoberyl. Originally discovered in Russia’s Ural Mountains in the 1830s, it’s now found in Sri Lanka, East Africa, and Brazil, but fine material is exceptionally rare and valuable. Its color can be a lovely green in daylight or fluorescent light, changing to brownish or purplish red in the incandescent light from a lamp or candle flame. This is a result of the complex way the mineral absorbs light.
Alexandrite is also a strongly pleochroic gem, which means it can show different colors when viewed from different directions. Typically, its three pleochroic colors are green, orange, and purple-red. However, the striking color change doesn’t arise from the gem’s pleochroism, but rather from the mineral’s unusual light-absorbing properties.
Fine Alexandrite is green to bluish green in daylight and red to purplish red in incandescent light.
Good quality Alexandrite has few inclusions. Rarely, needle-like inclusions create a cat’s-eye.
Alexandrite is most often available in mixed cuts. Its rarity means it is often cut to save weight.
Most cut gems weigh less than one carat. Larger, higher-quality gems rise in price dramatically.
Alexandrite Properties
Birthstone: June
Etymology: Named after Czar Alexander II of Russia.
Mineral: Chrysoberyl
Chemistry: BeAl2O4
Color: Bluish green in daylight, purplish red in incandescent light
Refractive Index: 1.746 to 1.755
Birefringence: 0.008 to 0.010
Specific Gravity: 3.73
Mohs Hardness: 8.5
AMBER
POLISHED AMBER
ROUGH AMBER
Amber is an organic gem. Organic gems are the products of living or once-living organisms and biological processes. Amber formed tens of millions of years ago, when sap from ancient trees hardened and fossilized.
Scientists and collectors treasure amber that contains suspended animal or plant fragments. These fossilized bits of once-living things were trapped in the hardening amber, creating a fascinating time capsule.
Some types of amber are found in the ground. Other types have been freed and carried by tides, ending up on beaches or near-shore areas. The Baltic coast bordering Germany, Poland, and Russia is still an important source of amber.
Amber comes in more colors than “amber.” Rare pieces can even be blue or green.
Amber with insect or plant inclusions is much more valuable than amber with none.
Most amber is polished in free-form shapes, cabochons or beads.
Amber is surprisingly light: in fact, it will float in a saturated salt solution.
Amber Properties
Etymology: From the Arabic anbar.
Organic, not mineral: Fossilized resin
Chemistry: C10H16O
Color: Yellow, orange, and brown
Refractive index: 1.540
Specific gravity: 1.08
Mohs Hardness: 2.0 to 2.5
AMETHYST
POLISHED AMETHYST
ROUGH AMETHYST
Amethyst is the purple variety of the quartz mineral species. It’s the gem that’s most commonly associated with the color purple, even though there are other purple gems such as sapphire and tanzanite. Its purple color can be cool and bluish, or a reddish purple that’s sometimes referred to as “raspberry.”
Amethyst is the birthstone for February.
The finest amethyst color is strong reddish purple to purple with no visible color zoning.
Most amethyst doesn’t have inclusions you can see without magnification.
Amethyst is cut into a variety of standard calibrated shapes, including rounds and ovals.
Amethyst is available in all size ranges for setting into a variety of jewelry styles.
Amethyst Properties
Birthstone: February
Etymology: From the Ancient Greek amethystos, meaning “not drunk.” It was believed you could drink all night and remain sober if you had an amethyst in your mouth.
Mineral: Quartz
Chemistry: SiO2
Color: Purple
Refractive Index: 1.544 to 1.553
Specific Gravity: 2.66
Mohs Hardness: 7
AMETRINE
POLISHED AMETRINE
ROUGH AMETRINE
Transparent, bicolored quartz with the colors of both amethyst and citrine in the same gem is called ametrine or amethyst-citrine. The contrasting colors give it an intriguing appearance.
Fine ametrine shows medium dark to moderately strong orange, and vivid to strong purple or violetish purple. Larger gems, usually those over 5 carats, tend to show the most intensely saturated hues. Dealers look for an attractive half-and-half distribution of each color, with a sharp boundary between the two colors at the center of the fashioned gemstone.
Ametrine is often cut as a rectangular step cut because that style nicely displays the bicolor effect. Cutters try to emphasize both colors equally.
Cutters sometimes fashion ametrines as mixed cuts or brilliant cuts and use internal reflections to mingle the amethyst and citrine colors. Ametrine is also popular in free-form or fantasy cuts.
There’s only one commercial source of natural ametrine: a deposit in eastern Bolivia, close to the Brazilian border.
Fine ametrines show beautiful contrast between their orange and purple shades.
Faceted ametrine generally has no eye-visible inclusions.
Unusual cutting styles add drama to ametrine’s unique color combination.
A wide range of sizes is available. Large material is popular with gem carvers.
Ametrine Properties
Etymology: A combination of the names amethyst and citrine.
Mineral: Quartz
Chemical composition: SiO2
Color: Bicolor orange/yellow and purple
Refractive index: 1.544 to 1.553
Specific gravity: 2.66 (+0.03/-0.02)
Mohs hardness: 7
AQUAMARINE
POLISHED AQUAMARINE
ROUGH AQUAMARINE
Aquamarine is the green-blue to blue variety of the mineral beryl. (Emerald is the green to bluish green variety of the same mineral.) Its color is usually a light pastel greenish blue.
Heat treatment usually gives it a more bluish appearance.
Aquamarine crystals are known to be large in size and relatively clean and well-formed, making them particularly valuable to collectors of mineral specimens.
Aquamarine’s preferred color is a moderately strong dark blue to slightly greenish blue.
Most cut gems are eye-clean. Large examples are available without visible inclusions.
Because aquamarine’s color is light, cutting is important and well-cut gems show brilliance.
Aquamarine crystals range from tiny to very large—some even up to 100 lbs.
Aquamarine Properties
Birthstone: March
Etymology: From the Latin aqua marina for “sea water,” alluding to the color.
Mineral: Beryl
Chemistry:Be3Al2Si6O18
Color: greenish blue, light in tone
Refractive index: 1.577 to 1.583
Specific gravity: 2.72
Mohs Hardness: 7.5 to 8.0
CITRINE
POLISHED CITRINE
ROUGH CITRINE
Citrine—the transparent, pale yellow to brownish orange variety of quartz—is rare in nature. In the days before modern gemology, its tawny color caused it to be confused with topaz. Citrine’s attractive color, plus the durability and affordability it shares with most other quartzes, makes it the top-selling yellow-to-orange gem. It’s an attractive alternative not only for topaz, but also for yellow sapphire. The finest citrine color is a saturated yellow to reddish orange free of brownish tints.
Since natural citrine is rare, most of the citrine on the market is the result of heat treatment, which causes some amethyst to change color from undesirable pale violet to an attractive yellow. The amethyst’s original hue can determine the richness of the resulting citrine’s yellow color.
Citrine crystals occur in a wide range of sizes, and citrine sizes up to 20 carats are readily available in jewelry. Although citrine is available in standard shapes and sizes, many high-end jewelry designers and gem carvers have fashioned the warm yellow gem into unusual cuts for jewelry and carvings.
Eye-visible inclusions are not common in citrine. If present, they decrease its value.
Citrine Properties
Birthstone: November
Etymology: From the old French citrin, meaning yellow.
Mineral: Quartz
Chemical composition: SiO2
Color: Yellow to orange to orangy red
Refractive index: 1.544 to 1.553
Specific gravity: 2.66 (+0.03/-0.02)
Mohs hardness: 7
DIAMOND
POLISHED DIAMOND
ROUGH DIAMOND
Diamond is the only gem made of a single element: It is typically about 99.95 percent carbon. The other 0.05 percent can include one or more trace elements, which are atoms that aren’t part of the diamond’s essential chemistry. Some trace elements can influence its color or crystal shape.
The way a mineral forms helps determine its identity. Diamond forms under high temperature and pressure conditions that exist only within a specific depth range (about 100 miles) beneath the earth’s surface. Diamond’s crystal structure is isometric, which means the carbon atoms are bonded in essentially the same way in all directions. Another mineral, graphite, also contains only carbon, but its formation process and crystal structure are very different. The result is that graphite is so soft that you can write with it, while diamond is so hard that you can only scratch it with another diamond.
Without any one of these factors, diamond might be just another mineral. Fortunately, though, this special combination of chemical composition, crystal structure, and formation process gives diamonds the qualities that make them extraordinary.
Clarity grades assess the number, size, relief, and position of inclusions and blemishes.
The less color, the higher the grade. Even the slightest hint can make a dramatic difference in value.
Cut (proportions, symmetry, and polish) is a measure of how a diamond’s facets interact with light.
Rarity means larger diamonds of the same quality are worth more per carat.
On almost all modern birthstone lists, diamond is recognized today as the birthstone for April.
Diamond Properties
Birthstone: April
Mineral: Diamond
Chemistry: C
Color: Colorless, gray, shades of yellow, brown, pink, green, orange, lavender, blue, black; rarely red
Refractive Index: 2.42
Specific Gravity: 3.52 (+/-0.01)
Mohs Hardness: 10 (Diamonds are the hardest material on earth: 58 times harder than anything else in nature)
EMERALD
POLISHED EMERALD
ROUGH EMERALD
Emerald is the green to bluish green variety of beryl, a mineral species that also includes aquamarine as well as beryls in other colors.
Gem experts differ on the degree of green that makes one stone an emerald and another stone a less-expensive green beryl. Some people in the trade tend to give the name emerald to any green beryl colored by chromium. But to most gemologists, gemological laboratories, and colored stone dealers, it is more correct to call a stone green beryl when its color is “too light” for it to be classified as emerald. Even among that group, however, there’s a difference of opinion about what’s considered “too light.”
The most desirable emerald colors are bluish green to pure green, with vivid color saturation.
In Emerald expect to see inclusions that dealers like to call an internal “jardin,” or garden.
Due to the crystal shape emeralds are commonly cut as rectangular step cuts called emerald cuts.
Because its density is lower, a one-carat emerald will appear larger in size than a one-carat diamond.
As the gem of Spring, emerald is the perfect choice as the birthstone for the month of May.
Emerald Properties
Birthstone: May
Etymology: From the Greek smaragados for “green,” through the Latin smaragdus to the Middle English esmeralde.
Mineral: Beryl
Chemistry: Be3Al2Si6O18
Color: Vibrant green
Refractive Index: 1.577 to 1.583
Specific Gravity: 2.72
Mohs Hardness: 7.5 to 8
GARNET
POLISHED GARNET
ROUGH GARNET
Garnets are a set of closely related minerals that form a group, resulting in gemstones in almost every color. Red garnets have a long history, but modern gem buyers can pick from a rich palette of garnet colors: greens, oranges, pinkish oranges, deeply saturated purplish reds, and even some blues.
Red garnet is one of the most common and widespread of gems, found in metamorphic rocks (which are rocks altered by heat and pressure) on every continent. But not all garnets are as abundant as the red ones. A green garnet, tsavorite, also occurs in metamorphic rocks, but it’s rarer because it needs unusual rock chemistries and special conditions to form.
Demantoid is a rare and famous green garnet, spessartine (also called spessartite) is an orange garnet, and rhodolite is a beautiful purple-red garnet. Garnets can even exhibit the color-change phenomenon similar to the rare gemstone alexandrite.
All garnets have essentially the same crystal structure, but they vary in chemical composition. There are more than twenty garnet categories, called species, but only five are commercially important as gems. Those five are pyrope, almandine (also called almandite), spessartine, grossular (grossularite), and andradite. A sixth, uvarovite, is a green garnet that usually occurs as crystals too small to cut. It’s sometimes set as clusters in jewelry. Many garnets are chemical mixtures of two or more garnet species.
Garnet clarity often depends on garnet type. Red garnets often don’t have eye-visible inclusions.
Many garnets are cut into standard shapes and calibrated sizes to allow setting into manufactured jewelry.
Garnets can be found in all sizes and weights, although some varieties are rare in large sizes.
Garnet is the birthstone for January.
Garnet Properties
Etymology: From the Latin granatus for “grain.” Many garnet deposits are small grains of red crystals in or on their host rock.
Birthstone: January
Mineral: Garnet group
Chemistry:
Almandine- Fe3Al2(SiO4)3
Andradite- Ca3Fe2(SiO4)3
Grossular- Ca3Al2(SiO4)3
Pyrope- Mg3Al2(SiO4)3
Rhodolite-(Mg, Fe)3Al2(SiO4)3
Spessartine- Mn3Al2(SiO4)3
Color: All colors
Refractive index: 1.714-1.888
Specific gravity: 3.47-4.15
Mohs harness: 6.5-7.5
IOLITE
POLISHED IOLITE
ROUGH IOLITE
When tanzanite was first discovered, gemologists initially suspected it might be cordierite, a transparent, pleochroic, violet-blue gem known for thousands of years. Today, cordierite (named after geologist Pierre Cordier) is better known by its trade name, iolite, which comes from the Greek word “ios,” meaning “violet.”
Iolite’s strong pleochroism makes the gem tricky to cut for best color. This in turn continues to pose challenges to producers and buyers interested in promoting the attractive yet problematic gem to retailers as an affordable blue-gem alternative.
This silicate of aluminum, iron, and magnesium has two distinctive features—a beautiful, violetish blue through slightly violetish blue hue derived from iron and a striking, eye-visible pleochroism. Its pleochroic colors differ with its bodycolor. Iolites that appear violet display light violet, dark violet, and yellow-brown pleochroic colors. Bluish iolites display colorless to yellow, blue-gray, and dark violet pleochroic colors. From some angles, then, a bluish iolite can actually appear completely colorless or yellow, and a violetish iolite can look brown. Iolite’s most desirable colors are in the violetish blue to fine blue range.
Iolites are usually cut as faceted gems, but they are also frequently cut into cabochons.
The size range for a fashioned iolite is anywhere from 1 to 10 carats. Fine iolites over 5 carats are rare.
Iolite falls at 7 to 7.5 on the Mohs hardness scale, but given that it has distinct cleavage in one direction, its toughness is only fair. This makes iolite vulnerable to breakage when set in a ring or other setting exposed to rough daily wear.
Unlike tanzanite, iolite is rarely treated. Fine iolite comes by its beautiful blues and violets naturally. Its freedom from enhancement other than normal cutting and polishing is a selling point when customers consider that most blue gems, from inexpensive blue topaz to fine sapphire, receive routine treatment of one type or another.
Properly oriented inclusions can cause cat’s-eyes and aventuresence.
Fine-quality faceted iolites over five carats are relatively rare in the market.
Iolite Properties
Mineral: Iolite (Cordierite)
Etymology: Iolite’s name is from the Greek word ios, meaning violet.
Chemical composition: Mg2Al4Si5O18
Color: Violetish blue (pleochroic colorless-yellow)
Refractive index: 1.542 – 1.551
Specific gravity: 2.61
Mohs hardness: 7.0 – 7.5
JADE
POLISHED JADE
ROUGH JADE
COLORS OF JADE
Among gemologists, jadeite and nephrite have long been considered the materials that may be referred to as jade. More recently some green omphacite has also been included in the definition. These are actually metamorphic rocks made up of tiny interlocking mineral crystals which make the gems exceptionally tough.
Jadeite can be semi-transparent to opaque and comes in a wide range of attractive colors: many shades of green, yellow, and reddish orange, plus white, gray, black, brown, and lavender (often a light purple or light grayish violet). The coloration is often unevenly distributed, giving jadeite an interesting visual texture carvers use to create imaginative and intriguing effects. The finest jadeite—almost transparent with a vibrant emerald-green color—is known as “imperial jade.”
Nephrite ranges from translucent to opaque and can be light to dark green, yellow, brown, black, gray, or white. Its colors tend to be more muted than jadeite.
Omphacite has typically been thought of as dark green to black. However, some green omphacite has been seen in the GIA laboratory that not only has a similar color to fine green jadeite but also has the same gemological properties as jadeite. Omphacite can be identified by its Raman spectra, which requires advanced testing techniques.
Modern gemologists use the word “jade” as a generic term for nephrite, jadeite, and under certain conditions green omphacite. “Fei Cui” is a traditional Chinese term for jadeite jade but is not universally accepted. Today the term is used in many places in Asia to refer to several materials including jadeite, kosmochlor and omphacite.
Jadeite’s transparency ranges from completely opaque to semi-transparent. The best jadeite is semi-transparent.
Jadeite has a lovely, smooth, and even texture that makes people want to touch and hold the gem.
While jade is rarely faceted like other gems, plain as well as intricate jade carvings are judged by their artistry.
Jadeite is generally sold by the piece rather than by weight. For top-quality imperial jadeite, slight size differences can make large value differences.
Jade Properties
Mineral: Jadeite, Nephrite, Green Omphacite
Etymology: From jade. The term jade comes from the Spanish piedras de ijada, “stone of the loins.” Jade was believed to heal kidney ailments.
Chemical composition:
Jadeite: NaAlSi2O6
Nephrite: Ca2(Mg,Fe)5Si8O22(OH)2
Omphacite: (Ca,Na)(Mg,Fe2+,Al)Si2O6
Color: Green, white, orange, yellow, lavender, black
Refractive index: 1.666 to 1.680 (+/-0.008) and 1.606 to 1.632 (+0.009, 0.006)
Specific gravity: 3.34 and 2.95
Mohs Hardness: 6.5 to 7 and 6.0 to 6.5
KUNZITE
POLISHED KUNZITE
ROUGH KUNZITE
Kunzite is the light pink to violetish purple variety of the mineral spodumene. It’s found in Afghanistan, Brazil, Madagascar, and the US state of California. The gem was named after pioneering gemologist George Frederick Kunz (1856-1932).
Kunzite has two perfect cleavage directions. It’s pleochroic, with the best color visible when you look down the length of the crystal. Cutters keep these factors in mind when they orient gems for finishing. They might also cut a kunzite deep to emphasize its pink to violet color.
It is not unusual to find kunzite in large sizes. The Smithsonian Institution houses a faceted heart-shaped kunzite that weighs 880 carats.
Kunzite can be irradiated and then heat-treated to enhance its color. Both treated and natural color in kunzite can fade with exposure to heat and bright light.
Color is kunzite’s most important value factor. The more vivid the color, the higher the value.
Kunzite is usually very clean, so inclusions that affect its transparency can reduce the gem’s value.
Skilled cutters can bring out kunzite’s beauty despite challenges from its two cleavage directions.
It’s not unusual to find kunzite in large sizes. This is an extremely large example that
weighs 648.10 carats.
Kunzite Properties
Mineral: Spodumene
Etymology: Named after pioneering gemologist George Frederick Kunz (1856-1932).
Chemical composition: LiAlSi2O6
Color: Pink-violetish purple, light-intense
Refractive index: 1.660 to 1.676
Specific gravity: 3.18
Mohs hardness: 6.5 to 7.0
LAPIS LAZULI
POLISHED LAPIS LAZULI
ROUGH LAPIS LAZULI
Lapis lazuli is a rock, which means it’s an aggregate of several minerals. This ancient gem contains three minerals in varying amounts: lazurite, calcite, and pyrite. Sometimes, it also contains one or more of the following: diopside, amphibole, feldspar, and mica.
Lapis frequently contains varying amounts of whitish calcite matrix—the host rock that surrounds the gem—or flecks or veins of glinting yellow pyrite, or both. The gem can also have a smoothly uniform bodycolor, free of visible pyrite and calcite.
Lapis is semitranslucent to opaque, with a waxy to vitreous luster. It has fair toughness, and its hardness ranges from 5 to 6 on the Mohs scale, depending on the mix of minerals.
Variously described as indigo, royal, midnight, or marine blue, lapis lazuli’s signature hue is slightly greenish blue to violetish blue, medium to dark in tone, and highly saturated. In its most-prized form, lapis lazuli has no visible calcite, although it might have gold-colored pyrite flecks. If the flecks are small and sprinkled attractively throughout the gem, their presence doesn’t necessarily lower lapis lazuli’s value. The lowest-quality lapis looks dull and green, the result of an excess of pyrite. Lapis with white calcite streaks is less valuable.
Although many people associate lapis with dark blue, it’s also found in other shades of blue, and even other hues. Its color can range from deep violet blue and royal blue to light blue to turquoise blue to a greenish blue. The combination of different minerals in the aggregate determines the color. For example, lazurite is responsible for producing royal blue lapis, while a mineral called afghanite creates a pale blue shade.
Worldwide, lapis is mined in several areas. The traditional source of the finest lapis lazuli is the same today as it was thousands of years ago—the mountains of Afghanistan. Other major sources are Chile and Lake Baikal in Siberia, Russia. Minor sources are Angola, Canada, Colorado (US), and Pakistan.
Top-quality lapis can display small, attractively distributed, gold-colored flecks of pyrite.
Lapis is typically cut into cabochons, beads, inlays, or tablets.
Lapis rough can be large enough to fashion into decorative carvings.
Lapis Lazuli Properties
Mineral: Rock
Etymology: From the Persian lazhward for blue stone.
Chemical composition: An aggregate
Color: Greenish blue to violetish blue
Refractive index: 1.500, sometimes 1.670
Specific gravity: 2.75 (+/- 0.25)
Mohs Hardness: 5 to 6
MALACHITE
POLISHED MALACHITE
ROUGH MALACHITE
Malachite is a beautiful decorative stone. Its rich, patterned coloration in shades of green is unique among gems. Malachite’s low hardness makes it easy to work, though it still takes a polish very well. These qualities, combined with ready availability, make malachite a popular choice for lapidary artistry.
Malachite is abundant in its typical forms, so even the best specimens are modestly priced. Pieces showing an unusual crystal habit, distinctive pattern, or chatoyancy will have higher values. Rocks consisting of malachite and other colorful copper minerals in lovely combinations generally command higher prices than pure malachites. The value of carvings and ornamental objects hinges primarily on the size and artistry of the work.
This vivid green gem gets its color from copper. Invariably associated with copper ore deposits, malachite ranks as a minor copper ore, with 58% copper content. Its recovery generally occurs, at least on a large scale, as a sidelight of copper mining.
Malachite’s characteristic swirling and concentric band patterns are a result of its formation process. Technically, malachite is usually a “secondary mineral,” which means it’s created by a chemical reaction between minerals that have already formed, rather than by a simple one-step process. Malachite may form when water containing carbon dioxide or dissolved carbonate minerals interacts with preexisting copper-containing rocks or when solutions containing dissolved copper minerals interact with carbonate rocks. Malachite’s swirls and bands reflect the waxing and waning of the solutions necessary for formation and the changes in their chemical content.
Since malachite has a Mohs hardness of just 3.5 to 4.5, a somewhat brittle tenacity, and sensitivity to both heat and acids, it requires special care as a jewelry stone. Use protective settings if you want to wear this gem in rings, bracelets, or other jewelry that may receive rough treatment or constant wear. On the other hand, wearing it in earrings, brooches, pendants, and tie pins should pose no special problems.
Although soft, malachites can take a polish very well. This has made them a popular choice for cabochons and beads as well as objets d’art. Lapidary artists use this stone extensively to make boxes, inlays, and carvings of all kinds. With great care, skilled artists can even turn malachite on a lathe to create goblets and candlesticks.
Facetable malachite crystals would be microscopic in size, since larger crystals are too opaque to let light through. Any faceted malachites larger than a ½ carat would be opaque.
Some of the rarest and most desired malachite mineral crystal structures are: botryoidal masses, stalactites or slices cut from them, and pieces with splayed-out clusters of needle-like (acicular) crystals showing a velvety chatoyancy. Mineral collectors compete to acquire prime specimens in these formations.
Fibrous aggregates (packed masses of crystals) can also take a high polish.
Malachites sometimes form in combination with other copper-bearing minerals. Blue-green chrysocolla, dark blue azurite, or brick-red cuprite can create rocks of unsurpassed beauty when combined with malachite’s forest green.
Malachite Properties
Mineral: Copper carbonate hydroxide
Etymology: From the Ancient Greek malache for mallow (an herb plant), in allusion to its color, or malakos, meaning “soft.”
Chemistry: Cu2CO3(OH)2
Color: Green (various shades due to admixed clay in massive material), dark green.
Refractive index: 1.85
Specific gravity:4.0
Mohs Hardness: 3.5 to 4.5
MOONSTONE
POLISHED MOONSTONE
POLISHED MOONSTONE
ROUGH MOONSTONE
Moonstone’s delicate beauty and its long-established heritage make it perhaps the most familiar gem-quality member of the feldspar group.
Feldspars are the most widespread minerals in the earth’s crust, as well as some of the most diverse. You can pick up a rock anywhere in the world, and you’ll probably find that it contains a mineral or two from the feldspar group.
Moonstone is a variety of the feldspar-group mineral orthoclase. It’s composed of two feldspar minerals, orthoclase and albite. At first, the two minerals are intermingled. Then, as the newly formed mineral cools, the intergrown orthoclase and albite separate into stacked, alternating layers.
When light falls between these thin, flat layers, it scatters in many directions, producing the phenomenon called adularescence. Adularescence is the light that appears to billow across a gemstone, giving its surface a glowing appearance.
Perhaps the most captivating aspect of adularescence is its appearance of motion. The misty light seems to roll across the gem’s surface as you change the viewing angle.
Other feldspar minerals can also show adularescence. One is a labradorite feldspar found mainly in Labrador, Canada. Another labradorite—found in Madagascar—has a multicolored adularescence over a light bodycolor. It’s known in the trade as rainbow moonstone, despite the fact that it’s actually a variety of labradorite rather than orthoclase.
Sanidine is another feldspar mineral that can include adularescent gems called moonstones. To be called moonstone, a mineral’s actual identity is not as important as the beauty of its adularescence.
The finest moonstone is a gem of glassy purity with a mobile, electric blue shimmer.
Characteristic inclusions include tiny tension cracks called centipedes.
As it displays moonstone’s phenomena to best advantage, cabochon is the common cut.
Moonstone comes in a wide range of sizes and carat weights.
Moonstone Properties
Mineral: Feldspar
Birthstone: June
Etymology: After the lustrous, “moonlight” sheen of the adularescent effect found in these stones.
Chemistry: KAlSi3O8
Color: Colorless to White, Gray, Green, Peach, Brown
Refractive index: 1.518 to 1.526
Specific gravity: 2.58
Mohs Hardness: 6.0 to 6.5
MORGANITE
POLISHED MORGANITE
ROUGH MORGANITE
Like many gems found in pegmatites, morganite can form large crystals.
Although morganite is rarer than aquamarine, large cut stones are readily available on today’s market. That’s probably because morganite hasn’t been promoted to the jewelry-buying public nearly as widely as aquamarine or emerald.
Most of the morganite on the market comes from pegmatite mines in Minas Gerais, Brazil. Afghanistan, Mozambique, Namibia, and the US have been minor and inconsistent sources. While it’s only a minor producer today, the original Madagascar deposit still sets the standard for the best material. That location’s yield of magenta-colored rough was superior to crystals from other sources.
Although commonly light in tone, top-quality material is a strong pink.
Faceted morganite, in light and stronger colors, usually has no eye-visible inclusions.
Light-colored crystals might be cut a little deep to intensify the color.
Morganite comes in a variety of sizes, including large faceted gems and designer cuts.
Morganite Properties
Mineral: Beryl
Etymology: Named after J. P. Morgan, American investment banker and financier.
Chemical composition: Be3Al2Si6O18
Color: Pink to orange-pink
Refractive index: 1.583 to 1.590
Specific gravity: 2.80 to 2.91
Mohs hardness: 7.5 to 8
OPAL
POLISHED OPAL
ROUGH OPAL
Opal is the product of seasonal rains that drenched dry ground in regions such as Australia’s semi-desert “outback.” The showers soaked deep into ancient underground rock, carrying dissolved silica (a compound of silicon and oxygen) downward.
During dry periods, much of the water evaporated, leaving solid deposits of silica in the cracks and between the layers of underground sedimentary rock. The silica deposits formed opal.
Play-of-color occurs in precious opal because it’s made up of sub-microscopic spheres stacked in a grid-like pattern—like layers of Ping-Pong balls in a box. As the lightwaves travel between the spheres, the waves diffract, or bend. As they bend, they break up into the colors of the rainbow, called spectral colors. Play-of-color is the result.
The color you see varies with the sizes of the spheres. Spheres that are approximately 0.1 micron (one ten-millionth of a meter) in diameter produce violet. Spheres about 0.2 microns in size produce red. Sizes in between produce the remaining rainbow colors.
Although experts divide gem opals into many different categories, five of the main types are:
- White or light opal: Translucent to semitranslucent, with play-of-color against a white or light gray background color, called bodycolor.
- Black opal: Translucent to opaque, with play-of-color against a black or other dark background.
- Fire opal: Transparent to translucent, with brown, yellow, orange, or red bodycolor. This material—which often doesn’t show play-of-color—is also known as “Mexican opal.”
- Boulder opal: Translucent to opaque, with play-of-color against a light to dark background. Fragments of the surrounding rock, called matrix, become part of the finished gem.
- Crystal or water opal: Transparent to semitransparent, with a clear background. This type shows exceptional play-of-color.
Experts expect different levels of clarity for different types of opals.
Fine opals are often cut into irregular shapes that keep as much play-of-color as possible.
Opal has relatively low density so even larger sizes can be comfortable to wear.
Opal Properties
Mineral: Hydrated Silica
Birthstone: October
Etymology: From the Latin name, opalus, for this stone, possibly derived from the Ancient Greek opallios for “color changing.”
Chemistry: SiO
Color: All colors
Refractive index: 1.37-1.47
Specific gravity: 2.15 (+0.08, -0.90)
Mohs Hardness: 5 to 6.5
PEARL
Perhaps the best-loved gems of all time, pearls—both natural and modern cultured pearls—occur in a wide variety of colors. The most familiar colors are white and cream (a light yellowish brown). Black, gray, and silver are also fairly common, but the palette of pearl colors extends to every hue. The main color, or bodycolor, is often modified by additional colors called overtones, which are typically pink (sometimes called rosé), green, purple, or blue. Some pearls also show the iridescent phenomenon known as orient.
Cultured pearls are popular for bead necklaces and bracelets, or mounted in solitaires, pairs, or clusters for use in earrings, rings, and pendants. Larger pearls with unusual shapes are popular with creative jewelry designers.
Natural Pearls
Natural pearls form in the bodies, or mantle tissue, of certain mollusks, usually around a microscopic irritant, and always without human help of any kind.
Cultured Pearls
The growth of cultured pearls requires human intervention and care. Today, most of the mollusks used in the culturing process are raised specifically for that purpose, although some wild mollusks are still collected and used.
To begin the process, a skilled technician takes mantle tissue from a sacrificed mollusk of the same species and inserts a shell bead along with a small piece of mantle tissue into a host mollusk’s gonad, or several pieces of mantle tissue without beads into a host mollusk’s mantle. If a bead is used, the mantle tissue grows and forms a sac around it and secretes nacre inward and onto the bead to eventually form a cultured pearl. If no bead is used, nacre forms around the individual implanted mantle tissue pieces. Workers tend the mollusks until the cultured pearls are harvested.
Pearl Types
There are four major types of cultured whole pearls:
Akoya Cultured Pearls
Akoya cultured pearls are the most familiar type of saltwater cultured pearl to most people in the U.S and other western markets. Many customers think of white or cream colored akoyas as the classic pearl used for jewelry, especially single-strand necklaces. Japan and China both produce akoya cultured pearls.
South Sea Cultured Pearls
Australia, Indonesia, and the Philippines are leading sources of these saltwater cultured pearls. South Sea cultured pearls can be white to silver or golden, depending on the type of oyster. Their large size and thick nacre, due to a long growth period, plus their limited critical growing conditions are all factors contributing to their value.
Tahitian Cultured Pearls
Cultivated primarily around the islands of French Polynesia (the most familiar of these is Tahiti). These saltwater cultured pearls, sometimes referred to as black pearls, have a wide color range. They might be gray, black or brown, and they can have blue, green, purple or pink overtones.
Freshwater Cultured Pearls
Freshwater cultured pearls are the most commonly produced pearls and they are one of the most popular pearl types among shoppers and jewelry designers. This is due to their remarkable range of sizes, shapes and colors, plus their commercial availability at lower price points. They are usually cultured in freshwater lakes and ponds, often with many pearls grown in one oyster. China is the leading source for freshwater cultured pearls.
Cultured pearls range from 2-16mm in diameter, depending on the mollusk used.
Spherical pearls are the most valued but symmetrical drops are also sought.
Although white is most classic, appreciation has grown for more unusual natural colors.
Pearls with high luster have sharp bright reflections on the surface.
Pearl Properties
Mineral: Calcium Carbonate
Birthstone: June
Etymology: From the Old French perle, Medieval Latin perla, and Classical Latin pernula or perna for pearl.
Chemistry: CaCO3
Color: White, black, gray, yellow, orange, pink, lavender, green, blue
Refractive Index: 1.52-1.69
Specific Gravity: 2.60-2.85
Mohs Hardness: 2.5-3.0
PERIDOT
POLISHED PERIDOT
ROUGH PERIDOT
Gem miners find peridot as irregular nodules (rounded rocks with peridot crystals inside) in some lava flows in the United States, China, and Vietnam and, very rarely, as large crystals lining veins or pockets in certain types of solidified molten rock. Sources for the latter include Finland, Pakistan, Myanmar, and the island of Zabargad.
Geologists believe both types of deposits relate to the spreading of the sea floor that occurs when the earth’s crust splits, and rocks from its mantle are pushed up to the surface. Sometimes—as in Myanmar— these rocks can be altered, deformed, and incorporated into mountain ranges by later earth movements.
Rarely, peridot can have an extraterrestrial source, being contained in meteorites that have fallen to earth.
The color range for peridot is narrow, from a brown-green color to yellowish green to pure green. Yellowish green is the most common peridot color seen in jewelry.
Although the best peridot is a pure grass green, most peridot is yellowish-green.
Most fine peridot is eye clean. Tiny black spots might be visible with magnification.
Peridot is cut in a wide variety of styles, including ovals, emerald cuts, and cushions.
Large crystals of peridot have cut gems more than 50 carats in size.
Peridot Properties
Mineral: Olivine
Birthstone: August
Etymology: Peridot comes from the Middle English peritot. Forsterite is named after the mineralogist J. Forster. Fayalite is named after Faial Island, in the Azores, Portugal. Olivine comes from the Latin oliva for “olive,” because of its color.
Chemistry: (MgFe)2SiO4
Color: Yellowish green
Refractive index: 1.65 to 1.69
Specific gravity: 3.34
Mohs Hardness: 6.5 to 7
ROSE QUARTZ
POLISHED ROSE QUARTZ
ROUGH ROSE QUARTZ
Rose quartz is one of the many quartz varieties used as a gem material. It gets its name from its delicate pink color, which ranges from very light (almost white) to medium-dark. The most appealing color typically occurs in larger sizes, and small rose quartz specimens with good color tend to be rare. Rose quartz is always found in massive form, so it lacks regular, flat crystal faces. It’s typically found in pegmatites, but also occurs in hydrothermal veins.
Research has shown that rose quartz owes its delicate pink color to microscopic inclusions of aligned silicate mineral fibers. Advanced testing has shown that they’re generally similar—but not identical—to the mineral dumortierite. The fibers likely crystallized out as the host gem cooled, and they’re aligned according to the crystal directions of the rose quartz.
This pastel gem’s inclusions give it a characteristic cloudy translucence, so it’s generally cut into beads and cabochons. Sometimes, the inclusions produce a six-rayed star if the fashioned gem is cabochon-cut and correctly oriented. Fine examples show a distinct, sharp, star floating above even pink bodycolor. The most transparent rose quartz rough might be faceted. Cutters can intensify the delicate color by applying concave facets and cutting gems in larger sizes.
The delicate translucence of rose quartz inspires gem carvers to create dainty or whimsical figures. The finest-quality rose quartz rough typically comes from Brazil. Other sources include India, Madagascar, and Sri Lanka.
Besides the typical cloudy rose quartz, which is colored by inclusions, there’s a type of transparent quartz that owes its pink color to a different mechanism. Some in the trade call it “pink crystalline quartz,” “crystalline rose quartz,” or simply “pink quartz.” Compared to massive rose quartz, it’s exceptionally rare. It might occur as beautiful clusters of transparent, well-formed crystals. The finest examples are from Brazil, especially a deposit near Galiléia, located near Governador Valadares in the state of Minas Gerais. The best are often left as mineral specimens, which can command high prices at auction. In 2013, a superb example called La Madona Rosa (the Pink Madonna) sold for $662,500. This specimen measures 15.5 x 8 inches (39 x 20 cm) and features a core of smoky quartz that resembles a human form surrounded by a glittering halo of transparent pink quartz crystals.
Material from some of these deposits will fade when exposed to natural light, but its color can be restored by irradiation. Research by Russian crystal growers on synthetic pink quartz has demonstrated a color-causing mechanism, which can cause results very similar to the natural material. Growers produce pink color in transparent synthetic quartz by growing it with impurities of aluminum and phosphorous. Some of these impurities replace silicon in the quartz lattice. Subsequent irradiation produces color centers that give the crystal its pink color.
Rose quartz comes in a range of delicate shades, from very light to medium-dark pink.
Rose quartz owes its cloudy translucence to microscopic mineral inclusions.
Transparent material is usually faceted; translucent material is cabochon-cut or carved.
Gem size makes a difference: Large gems generally show the most intense pink shades.
Rose Quartz Properties
Mineral: Quartz
Chemical composition: SiO2
Color: Very light pink to medium-dark pink
Refractive index: 1.544 to 1.553
Specific gravity: 2.66 (+0.03/-0.02)
Mohs hardness: 7
RUBY
POLISHED RUBY
ROUGH RUBY
Ruby is one variety of the corundum mineral species, which also includes sapphire. Ruby is highly regarded and can command high per-carat prices. It is arguably one of the most important gems in the colored stone market.
In its purest form, the mineral corundum is colorless. Trace elements that become part of the mineral’s crystal structure cause variations in its color. Chromium is the trace element that causes ruby’s red, which ranges from an orangy red to a purplish red.
The strength of ruby’s red depends on how much chromium is present—the more chromium, the stronger the red color. Chromium can also cause fluorescence, which adds to the intensity of the red color.
The most renowned rubies, like those from Myanmar, the Himalayas, and northern Vietnam, typically form in marble. They’re found in layers that are distributed irregularly within the surrounding marble. Marble forms as part of the metamorphic (rock-altering) process, when heat and pressure from mountain formation act on existing limestone deposits.
Marble has low iron content, so the rubies that originate in marble (called “marble-hosted” by gemologists) lack iron. Because of this, many have an intense red color.
In addition, rubies found in marble typically fluoresce red under ultraviolet light—even the ultraviolet light in sunlight. Fluorescence can make a ruby’s color even more intense and increase its value.
In other locations, rubies can be found in basalt rocks. Rubies from these sources can have higher iron content, which can make the rubies darker and less intense in color. Higher iron content in the chemical makeup of a ruby can also mask the red fluorescence, eliminating that extra glow of red color seen in marble-hosted rubies.
Color is the most significant factor affecting a ruby’s value: Fine gems are a pure, vibrant red to slightly purplish red.
If a ruby’s inclusions affect its transparency or brilliance they reduce the gem’s value significantly.
Rubies are commonly fashioned as mixed cuts, which have brilliant-cut crowns and step-cut pavilions.
Fine-quality rubies over one carat are very rare and price goes up significantly as size increases.
Ruby Properties
Mineral: Corundum
Birthstone: July
Etymology: From the Latin ruber for red.
Chemical composition: Al2O3
Color: Red
Refractive index: 1.762 to 1.770
Specific gravity: 4.00 (+/- 0.05)
Mohs Hardness: 9
SAPPHIRE
POLISHED SAPPHIRE
ROUGH SAPPHIRE
Blue sapphire belongs to the mineral species corundum. It can be a pure blue but ranges from greenish blue to violetish blue. The name “sapphire” can also apply to any corundum that’s not red and doesn’t qualify as ruby, another corundum variety.
Besides blue sapphire and ruby, the corundum family also includes so-called “fancy sapphires.” They come in violet, green, yellow, orange, pink, purple, and intermediate hues. There are also “parti-colored” sapphires that show combinations of different colors. Some stones exhibit the phenomenon known as color change, most often going from blue in daylight or fluorescent lighting to purple under incandescent light. Sapphires can even be gray, black, or brown.
Fancy sapphires are generally less available than blue ones, and some colors are scarce, especially in very small or very large sizes. Still, fancy sapphires create a rainbow of options for people who like the romance associated with this gem, but who also want something out of the ordinary.
The mineral corundum is composed only of aluminum and oxygen, and it requires a growth environment that’s free of silicon. However, silicon is a very common element, making natural corundum relatively uncommon. In its purest state, corundum is actually colorless. Colorless sapphires were once popular diamond imitations, and they’ve staged a comeback as accent stones in recent years.
But colorless corundum is rare. Most corundum contains color-causing trace elements. When the trace elements are iron and titanium, the corundum is blue sapphire. Only a few hundredths of a percent of iron and titanium can cause the color, and the more iron the corundum contains, the darker the blue. Chromium can cause the red color of ruby or the pink of pink sapphire.
In the 1990s, discoveries in East Africa and Madagascar brought fancy sapphires widespread recognition. The new sources supplemented production from traditional ones like Sri Lanka and Madagascar and increased the availability of yellows, oranges, pinks, and purples.
The colors attracted jewelry designers who wanted to move away from traditional hues of red, blue, and green. Now, contemporary designers arrange fancy sapphires in stunning rainbow suites.
Corundum can show a phenomenon called asterism, or the star effect. This phenomenon usually appears as a six-ray star pattern across a cabochon-cut stone’s curved surface. The star effect can be seen in ruby or any color of sapphire, and it arises from white light reflecting from numerous tiny, oriented needle-like inclusions.
Besides fancy sapphire and star corundum, there’s another interesting variety: color-change sapphire. These fascinating stones change color under different lighting. Their presence adds a special dimension to the already amazing corundum family of gems.
Both blue and fancy sapphires come from a variety of exotic sources including Madagascar, Tanzania, Sri Lanka, Myanmar, and Australia.
Sapphires come in a variety of colors. Preferred sapphires have strong to vivid color saturation, regardless of hue.
Blue sapphires typically have some inclusions, but they generally have better clarity than rubies.
Sapphire is often cut with a brilliant pattern on the crown and a step cut pattern on the pavilion.
Blue sapphires range in size, and large blue sapphires are more readily available than large rubies.
Sapphire Properties
Mineral: Corundum
Birthstone: September
Etymology: From the Latin sapphirus for blue.
Chemistry: Al2O3
Color: Every color but red
Refractive index: 1.762 to 1.770
Specific gravity: 4.00
Mohs Hardness: 9
SPINEL
POLISHED SPINEL
ROUGH SPINEL
Spinel, like garnet and diamond, is singly refractive, with the same physical properties in all crystal directions. It belongs to the cubic crystal system, and its characteristic crystal shape is an octahedron, which looks like two back-to-back pyramids. Well-formed spinel crystals are fairly common in nature.
Spinel can also form flattened crystals that look radically different from octahedral crystals. The flattened shape occurs when the pyramids that form an octahedron rotate against each other during growth. Scientists describe this as a “twinned crystal.” Large gems cut from good-color twinned crystals are typically shallow, and should be judged on their overall beauty rather than on proportions alone.
The spinel used in jewelry is a small part of a group of minerals that share the same crystal structure. Not all of them form transparent crystals suitable for jewelry use, however. Spinel offers a range of hues, from orange to intense “stoplight” red, vibrant pink, and all shades of purple, blue, and violet through bluish green.
Intense reds and pinks are caused by traces of chromium. The higher the chromium content, the stronger the red hue. Orange and purple stones owe their color to a mixture of iron and chromium.
Violet to blue spinel can be colored by trace amounts of iron, and vibrant blues owe their saturated color to trace amounts of cobalt.
The most valued spinel colors are bright red, cobalt blue, and vivid pink and orange. Pale lavender is more affordable.
Spinel with no visible inclusions is preferred. The more prominent the inclusions, the less valuable the gem.
Spinel is most often cut in cushion and oval shapes. When properly proportioned it has excellent brilliance.
Fine-color spinel is rare above five carats. Most fine-quality rough is cut to non-standard sizes to save weight.
Spinel Propertis
Mineral: Spinel
Birthstone: August
Etymology: Possibly from the Latin spina for “thorn,” alluding to spine-shaped crystals. Since this is not a common habit for spinel, this origin is uncertain.
Chemistry: MgAl2O4
Color: red, orange, pink, purple, blue, black
Refractive index: 1.718
Specific gravity: 3.60
Mohs Hardness: 8
SUNSTONE
POLISHED SUNSTONE
ROUGH SUNSTONE
Although sunstone and moonstone are both members of the feldspar group, the resemblance stops there. While cool moonstone’s phenomenal varieties offer a soft and gentle adularescent glow, warm sunstone’s phenomenal varieties show a distinct and lively glitter called aventurescence. Aventurescence is a sparkly, metallic-looking luster caused by flat, reflective inclusions, sometimes called “schiller” by sunstone fanciers.
The feldspar group has many members. Some are suitable for jewelry use, some aren’t. Members of the feldspar group vary slightly in chemical composition, and those variations produce a variety of gemstones that differ widely in appearance.
There are two main branches of the feldspar family tree—feldspars that contain potassium and feldspars that contain a mixture of calcium and sodium.
Two species of feldspars contain potassium. These are orthoclase, which includes the gem varieties moonstone and orthoclase sunstone; and microcline, which includes the gem variety amazonite. A non-phenomenal form of orthoclase feldspar appears in jewelry on rare occasions. Sometimes faceted, its hue is usually a transparent yellow.
Plagioclase feldspars contain a mixture of calcium and sodium, and they have slightly different compositions. The gem species in this feldspar family include labradorite and oligoclase.
Not all feldspars that bear the name “sunstone” are from the same side of the feldspar family—both the orthoclase and the plagioclase species boast a sunstone feldspar variety. The name sunstone refers to the gem’s appearance rather than to its chemical makeup.
There are many sunstone varieties. If aventurescence is present, gemologists call it aventurine feldspar. The aventurine feldspar from India has a red-brown bodycolor and sunny glitter. It’s perhaps the best-known sunstone variety, but that situation has been changing.
The US state of Oregon produces a number of sunstone varieties. The increasing supply from the area has made sunstone more available to the general public. Because many of the sunstone types are unique to the rugged high-desert area in South Central Oregon, they’re being marketed as “all-American” gemstones.
Although most sunstones have yellow, orange, or brown bodycolor, not all sunstones are aventurescent. The appearance of the phenomenon depends upon the size of the inclusions. Small inclusions create a reddish or golden sheen on top of any bodycolor. Larger inclusions create attractive, glittery reflections. Sunstone inclusions can be hematite, copper, or some other mineral.
The most in-demand sunstone colors are deep red – like this gem – deep green, and intense bicolors.
Small inclusions provide a reddish or golden sheen; larger inclusions create glittering reflections.
Creative cuts and calibrated gems alike are designed to highlight the gem’s glowing colors.
Sunstone is available in a range of sizes, but large carved gems like this Oregon beauty are rare.
Sunstone Properties
Mineral: Feldspar
Chemical composition: Orthoclase – KAlSi3O8
Oligoclase and labradorite – solid solution between NaAlSi3O8 and CaAl2Si2O8
Color: Yellow, green, red, red-brown, colorless
Refractive Index:
Orthoclase sunstone – 1.518 to 1.526
Oligoclase sunstone – 1.537 to 1.547
Labradorite sunstone – 1.559 to 1.568
Specific gravity:
Orthoclase – 2.58
Oligoclase – 2.65
Labradorite – 2.70
Mohs hardness: 6.0 – 7.2
TANZANITE
POLISHED TANZANITE
ROUGH TANZANITE
Tanzanite is the violet blue to blue violet variety of the mineral zoisite. It is mined commercially only in one area of the world: the Merelani Hills of Tanzania, which is where it gets its name.
Tanzanite’s appearance is influenced greatly by its pleochroism, which is the ability of a gemstone to show different colors when viewed in different crystal directions. Tanzanite’s pleochroism was documented in scientific papers not long after its discovery. In 1969, American Mineralogist described the gem’s pleochroic colors as `red-violet, deep blue, and yellow green.’ Today, most gems are heat treated, which removes or reduces the yellow green or brownish pleochroic color, maximizing the blue and violet.
Top-quality tanzanite can be violetish blue –similar to a fine sapphire color –or a unique, predominately violet hue all its own. Some stones might also appear more purplish depending on how the cutter chooses to orient the fashioned gem. Both the violet and blue pleochroic colors are readily visible in a fashioned stone when it is gently rocked and tilted. This means that every tanzanite is a blend of these pleochroic colors. The exact face-up color depends on the inherent color of the original rough, its size, the pleochroic colors the cutter favors when they orient the fashioned stone, and the light the finished gem is viewed under. Cool lighting –like daylight equivalent fluorescent –will emphasize tanzanite’s blue, while warm lighting –like incandescent –will make it appear more violet-to-purple.
Just like other colored gemstones, vivid strongly-colored tanzanites are highly sought after. Lighter toned pastel hues are more plentiful and affordable than vivid colors and have a subtle appeal of their own.
Deep saturated violet blue or blue violet are the most valuable tanzanite colors. Paler hues are more commonly found.
Eye-visible inclusions decrease the value of tanzanite, particularly in lighter colored stones.
Tanzanite is available in a wide range of shapes but cushion and oval cuts are most common.
Tanzanite color is less saturated in smaller sizes. Gems must be above five carats in size to have fine color.
Tanzanite Properties
Mineral: Zoisite
Birthstone: December
Etymology: Zoisite is named after Baron Sigmund Zois, who presented the first specimens of the material to Abraham Gottlob Werner, the great mineralogist. Thulite is named after Thule, an ancient name for Norway. Anyolite comes from the Masai anyoli for “green.” Tanzanite is the Tiffany & Co. trade name for blue zoisite, named after the country of origin, Tanzania.
Chemistry: Ca2Al3(SiO4)3(OH)
Color: Violet blue to bluish violet to violet purple
Refractive Index: 1.691 to 1.700
Specific Gravity: 3.35
Mohs Hardness: 6 to 7
TOPAZ
POLISHED TOPAZ
ROUGH TOPAZ
Many consumers know topaz as simply an inexpensive blue gem. They’re surprised to learn that its blue color is hardly ever natural: It’s almost always caused by treatment. They might also be surprised to know that topaz has so many more colors to offer gem lovers, including pinks and purples that rival the finest fancy sapphires.
Topaz is allochromatic, which means that its color is caused by impurity elements or defects in its crystal structure rather than by an element of its basic chemical composition. The element chromium causes natural pink, red, and violet-to-purple colors in topaz. Imperfections at the atomic level in topaz crystal structure can cause yellow, brown, and blue color. Brown is a common topaz color, and the gem is sometimes mistakenly called “smoky quartz.”
Topaz actually has an exceptionally wide color range that, besides brown, includes various tones and saturations of blue, green, yellow, orange, red, pink, and purple. Colorless topaz is plentiful, and is often treated to give it a blue color.
The color varieties are often identified simply by hue name—blue topaz, pink topaz, and so forth—but there are also a couple of special trade names. Imperial topaz is a medium reddish orange to orange-red. This is one of the gem’s most expensive colors. Sherry topaz—named after the sherry wine—is a yellowish brown or brownish yellow to orange. Stones in this color range are often called precious topaz to help distinguish them from the similarly colored but less expensive citrine and smoky quartz.
Topaz is also pleochroic, meaning that the gem can show different colors in different crystal directions.
The most valued topaz colors are orangy red to red. Blue gems are widely available.
Topaz used in jewelry is typically eye clean with no visible inclusions.
Topaz crystals are usually columnar, and cut as oval or pear shapes to improve yield.
Topaz often forms as large crystals. These can yield sizable cut gems.
Topaz Properties
Mineral: Topaz
Birthstone: November
Etymology: From the Sanskrit tapas for fire, alluding to the orange color, or from Topazios, an ancient Greek name for St. John’s Island in the Red Sea where the gem was said to be mined.
Chemistry: Al2(F,OH)2SiO4
Color: Yellow, orange, brown, pink to red to purple red, blue, light green and colorless
Refractive index: 1.619 to 1.627
Specific gravity: 3.53
Mohs Hardness: 8
TOURMALINE
POLISHED TOURMALINE
ROUGH TOURMALINE
Tourmalines come in a wide variety of exciting colors. In fact, tourmaline has one of the widest color ranges of any gem species, occurring in various shades of virtually every hue.
Many tourmaline color varieties have inspired their own trade names:
- Rubellite is a name for pink, red, purplish red, orangy red, or brownish red tourmaline, although some in the trade argue that the term shouldn’t apply to pink tourmaline.
- Indicolite is dark violetish blue, blue, or greenish blue tourmaline.
- Paraíba is an intense violetish blue, greenish blue, or blue tourmaline from the state of Paraíba, Brazil.
- Chrome tourmaline is intense green. In spite of its name, it’s colored mostly by vanadium, the same element that colors many Brazilian and African emeralds.
- Parti-colored tourmaline displays more than one color. One of the most common combinations is green and pink, but many others are possible.
- Watermelon tourmaline is pink in the center and green around the outside. Crystals of this material are typically cut in slices to display this special arrangement.
Some tourmalines also show a cat’s-eye effect called chatoyancy. Cat’s-eye tourmalines are most often green, blue, or pink, with an eye that’s softer and more diffused than the eye in fine cat’s-eye chrysoberyl. This is because, in tourmaline, the effect is caused by numerous thin, tube-like inclusions that form naturally during the gem’s growth. The inclusions are larger than the inclusions in cat’s-eye chrysoberyl, so the chatoyancy isn’t as sharp. Like other cat’s-eyes, these stones have to be cut as cabochons to bring out the effect.
A tourmaline’s chemical composition directly influences its physical properties and is responsible for its color. Tourmalines make up a group of closely related mineral species that share the same crystal structure but have different chemical and physical properties. They share the elements silicon, aluminum, and boron, but contain a complex mixture of other elements such as sodium, lithium, calcium, magnesium, manganese, iron, chromium, vanadium, fluorine, and sometimes copper.
Gemologists use a tourmaline’s properties and chemical composition to define its species. The major tourmaline species are elbaite, liddicoatite, dravite, uvite, and schorl.
Most gem tourmalines are elbaites, which are rich in sodium, lithium, aluminum, and sometimes—but very rarely—copper. They occur in granite-containing pegmatites, which are rare igneous rocks. Pegmatites are sometimes rich in exotic elements that are important for the formation of certain gem minerals. Pegmatites might contain very large crystals up to 1 meter (about 3 feet) in length. Because of the nature of pegmatites, different gem pockets within one pegmatite body can hold tourmaline crystals of very different colors. Or one pocket can produce a variety of differently colored tourmalines. As a result, many mines produce a variety of gem colors.
Another feature of gem pegmatites is the scattered distribution of pockets within them. For miners, working a pegmatite consists mostly of excavating barren rock until the work results in the occasional and sudden reward of a rich pocket full of spectacular gem crystals.
Elbaites offer the widest range of gem-quality tourmaline colors. They can be green, blue, or yellow, pink to red, colorless, or zoned with a combination of colors.
Liddicoatite is rich in calcium, lithium, and aluminum. It also originates in granite-containing pegmatites and offers a diverse array of colors, often in complex internal zoned patterns. It’s named after the late Richard T. Liddicoat, former president of GIA and former chairman of its Board of Governors. He’s often referred to as the “Father of Modern Gemology.”
Uvite is rich in calcium, magnesium, and aluminum. Dravite is rich in sodium, magnesium, and aluminum. Both form in limestone that’s been altered by heat and pressure, resulting in marble that contains accessory minerals like tourmaline.
Some of the most important gem tourmalines are mixtures of dravite and uvite. They’re often brown, yellowish brown, reddish brown, or nearly black in color, but sometimes they contain traces of vanadium, chromium, or both. When present in the right concentrations, these impurities produce rich green hues that rival those of tsavorite garnet and, occasionally, even emerald. Dealers sell these gems as chrome tourmaline, even though they’re not always colored by chromium.
The bright yellow gems some dealers call “savannah” tourmalines are also mixtures of dravite and uvite. Their coloring element is iron.
Schorl is typically black, and rich in iron. It forms in a wide variety of rock types. It’s rarely used as a gem, although it has been featured in mourning jewelry.
Tourmaline’s colors have many different causes. It’s generally agreed that traces of iron, and possibly titanium, induce green and blue colors. Manganese produces reds and pinks, and possibly yellows. Some pink and yellow elbaites might owe their hues to color centers caused by radiation, which can be natural or laboratory-induced.
Pink to red tourmaline often has more visible inclusions than green to blue varieties.
Tourmaline crystals are often long, leading cutters to cut slender finished stones.
Tourmalines come in all shapes and sizes. The value change for size varies with the variety.
Tourmaline Properties
Mineral: Tourmaline
Birthstone: October
Etymology: Tourmaline is from the Singhalese word turamali, meaning “mixed-colored stones.” Tourmalines were often confused with other gems. Dravite is named after the Carinthian district of Drave, Austria. Schorl is an old German mining term for unwanted minerals associated with ore. Elbaite is named after the Isle of Elba, Italy. Buergerite is named after Professor Martin J. Buerger, crystallographer and well-known research scientist. Liddicoatite is named after Richard T. Liddicoat, the former director of the Gemological Institute of America. Chromdravite is named for its composition. Uvite is named after the Uva Province, Sri Lanka.
Chemistry:
Elbaite Na(Li1.5,Al1.5)Al6Si6O18(BO3)3(OH)4
Dravite NaMg3Al6Si6O18(BO3)3(OH)4
Liddicoatite Ca(Li2Al)Al6Si6O18(BO3)3(OH)3F
Chromedravite NaMg3Cr6Si6O18(BO3)3(OH)4
Color: All colors
Refractive index: 1.624 to 1.644
Specific gravity: 3.06 (+0.20, -0.06)
Mohs Hardness: 7 to 7.5
TURQUOISE
POLISHED TURQUOISE
ROUGH TURQUOISE
Turquoise is found in only a few places on earth: dry and barren regions where acidic, copper-rich groundwater seeps downward and reacts with minerals that contain phosphorus and aluminum. The result of this sedimentary process is a porous, semitranslucent to opaque compound of hydrated copper and aluminum phosphate.
Turquoise is a prime example of an opaque colored stone that can be marketed both as a gem for jewelry and as an ornamental material.
Turquoise might lack the sparkle and clarity of transparent colored gemstones like ruby, emerald, and sapphire, but its multi-layered history and soul-satisfying color make it a desirable gem. Its color can range from dull greens to grass greens to a bright, medium-toned, sky blue. People value turquoise highly for its combination of ancient heritage and unforgettable color.
The traditional source for the top color, sometimes described as robin’s-egg blue or sky blue, is the Nishapur district of Iran, the country formerly known as Persia. So, quite often, you’ll hear people in the trade call turquoise of this beautiful color “Persian blue,” whether or not it was actually mined in Iran.
Top-quality turquoise has inspired designers to create elegant jewelry. It’s most often cut into cabochons, but it might also be cut into beads or flat pieces for inlays.
Although much turquoise jewelry is sleek and modern, many US consumers are familiar with the traditional jewelry of Native American peoples such as the Pueblo, Hopi, Zuni, and Navajo. People interested in Native American arts and crafts frequently collect this stylized silver jewelry.
Turquoise is relatively soft, so it’s ideal for carving. Artists in Europe, Asia, the Middle East, and the Americas choose turquoise as a medium for carved jewelry and art objects. It’s often fashioned into talismans with Native American significance, such as bird and animal carvings, called fetishes.
Turquoise owes its texture to its structure and composition. It’s an aggregate of microscopic crystals that form a solid mass. If the crystals are packed closely together, the material is less porous, so it has a finer texture. Fine-textured turquoise has an attractive, waxy luster when it’s polished. Turquoise with a less-dense crystal structure has higher porosity and coarser texture, resulting in a dull luster when it’s polished.
Porosity and texture don’t just affect appearance: They also affect durability. Turquoise is fairly soft—it ranks 5 to 6 on the Mohs scale. Turquoise with a coarse texture might have poor toughness, too. Samples with finer texture have fair to good toughness.
In turquoise, low porosity and fine texture are more valuable than high porosity and coarse texture. Coarse, porous stones are usually treated to make them smoother, shinier, and more marketable.
Turquoise deposits usually form in iron-rich limonite or sandstone. Limonite creates dark brown markings in turquoise, while sandstone creates tan markings. These markings are remnants of the host rock within the turquoise, and can resemble splotches or veins. They’re called matrix.
Manufacturers try to fashion turquoise so that no matrix is visible, but sometimes it’s unavoidable. Small amounts of turquoise might be scattered through the host rock in such a way that the rough material can’t yield any cut specimens large enough to fashion into gems without including some matrix.
The presence of matrix can lower the value of turquoise, but that doesn’t mean turquoise with matrix is worthless or unmarketable. Some buyers actually prefer the presence of matrix in fashioned turquoise if its effect is attractive and balanced.
This is especially true if it’s a type of turquoise known in the trade as spiderweb turquoise. It contains matrix in thin, delicate, web-like patterns across the face of the gemstone. The patterns provide a dark contrast to the gem’s bright blue.
In the market for top-quality turquoise, stones with no matrix at all command the highest prices. Gems with attractive spiderweb matrix rank second in value.
Turquoise Properties
Mineral: Turquoise
Birthstone: December
Etymology: From the French turquois for “Turkish.” The stone was brought to Europe from Persia (Iran) through Turkey.
Chemistry: CuAl6(PO4)4 ·(OH)8 ·5H2O
Color: Blue to green
Refractive Index: 1.610 to 1.650
Specific Gravity: 2.76 (+0.14, -0.36)
Mohs Hardness: 5 to 6
ZIRCON
POLISHED ZIRCON
ROUGH ZIRCON
Colorless zircon is well known for its brilliance and flashes of multicolored light, called fire. These two zircon properties are close enough to the properties of diamond to account for centuries of confusion between the two gems.
Zircon occurs in an array of colors. Its wide and varied palette of yellow, green, red, reddish brown, and blue hues makes it a favorite among collectors as well as informed consumers.
Zircon crystals grow in many different types of rock and possess a range of optical and physical properties.
Some zircons—usually green ones—display much lower values for these properties than others. Scientists have determined that the crystal structures of these gems were almost completely broken down by radioactive elements—often present in zircon as impurities—that damaged the gems’ crystal structure over long periods of geological time.
Some gemologists classify zircons into three types—high, intermediate, and low. A zircon’s classification depends on its properties, which are directly related to the amount of radiation-induced damage done to its crystal structure.
High or normal zircons have full crystal structures, with little or no damage from radioactive elements. As a result, they have the normal physical and optical properties associated with the mineral.
In intermediate or medium zircons, radioactive elements have caused some structural damage. They have physical and optical properties that are between high and low types.
Extensive crystal-structure damage from radioactive elements results in low zircons with much lower optical and physical properties. In extreme cases, they are practically amorphous, which means they lack an orderly crystal structure.
Virtually all the zircons used in jewelry are of the high type. Interestingly, radiation-induced crystal-structure breakdown can be reversed somewhat by heating zircon to high temperatures. High-temperature heat treatment repairs the stone’s damaged crystal structure.
The most valuable colors of zircon are blue, bright red, and green.
Zircon is often eye-clean. Gems with noticeable inclusions are less valuable.
To maximize its brilliance, zircon is most often cut in rounds and ovals.
Zircon in fine quality is rare in large sizes. Zircon weighs more than most gems of like size.
Zircon Properties
Mineral: Zircon
Birthstone: December
Etymology: From the Arabic zargun, from the Persian zar for “gold” plus gun for “color.” The name is ancient.
Chemistry: ZrSiO4
Color: Blue, red, yellow, orange, brown, green
Refractive index:
High: 1.925 to 1.984 (+/- 0.040)
Medium: 1.875 to 1.905 (+/- 0.030)
Low: 1.810 to 1.815 (+/-0.030)
Birefringence: 0.000 to 0.059 (low to high)
Specific gravity: 3.90 to 4.73
Mohs Hardness: 6 to 7.5 (low to high)
